Thursday, December 8, 2011
Food Chain / Food & Drink This week in Food & Drink
Posted by Kate Schmidt on 12.08.11 at 10:00 AM
- Joe Bachmann
- Vera's Mackerel escabeche with romesco sauce
- Julia Thiel
- Fresh cod milt
In Key Ingredient, Rootstock Wine & Beer Bar chef Duncan Biddulph is forced to contend with cod milt, that is, the male fish's sperm sac, complete with semen. Fortunately, while "it looks gross and it feels gross," Biddulph said, "it doesn't taste gross at all. It just kind of tastes like brandade." Inspired by a Japanese egg custard called chawanmushi, he made a savory custard with the milt, topping it with a salad of pickled shiitakes, toasted sesame seeds, ponzu vinaigrette, and microgreens and celery, all dotted with salmon roe. "Maybe we'll end up with a mutant, cod sperm and salmon roe," he joked. "Ugh, what have we created?" Next up is Jason Hammel of Lula Cafe, working with the whey cheese gjetost.
In Cocktail Challenge, Hot Chocolate's Luke LeFiles, challenged by Kris von Dopek with kimchi, put it through an extractor to form the base of a "hard-core" bull shot, the Malort Drinker's Breakfast. Made with mezcal, lime juice, veal stock, and celery bitters in addition to the kimchi "juice," it's served in a shot gloss rimmed with a spice mixture that includes ground dehydrated kimchi. "Would I drink it?" LeFiles asked. "Yes." He's challenged Brad Bolt of Bar DeVille with Manischewitz "or dude vodka, he can pick."
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