Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Food Chain / Food & Drink What's That Smell at Paris Club? Don't Ask the "VIPs"
Posted by Mike Sula on 03.16.11 at 10:00 AM
- Le Facebook du Paris Club
"It smells like a barn in here."
That's what my pal said the moment we took our seats in the vast dining room at Paris Club, the second restaurant from Lettuce Entertain You's R.J. and Jerrod Melman, a radical remake of the more classically oriented Brasserie Jo. It hit me too, a strong, slightly sweet funk anyone who's ever spent time on a farm might describe as . . . bovine.
I thought perhaps it had something to do with the gas problems the restaurant suffered on their second night in business, and I made a note to take some investigative whiffs on subsequent visits. That's why most professional food critics eat at restaurants more than once before they write about them—to determine whether problems are incidental or consistent. If the smell persisted I'd guess that would be a serious problem for the heirs to Empire Lettuce.
In the meantime, I began to hear the rumors circulating among industry folks: the miasma, they said, arose from the floor, salvaged from an old French barn the Melmans purchased, deconstructed, and installed, which failed to disperse after repeated cleanings and refinishings. That certainly would be a disaster, and one could sympathize with the boys, still green restaurateurs relative to Daddy Rich's vast experience.
On my next visit another chum picked up the scent immediately, and couldn't put it out of his mind through our entire meal.
We weren't alone in noticing the aroma. These ladies did. And Yelpers caught it too, though none characterized it as manure-like. They called it—with typical clarity—"funky-leathery," "weird," or like "a bouquet of flowers when it starts to go bad in the vase." Our server acknowledged that there had been customer complaints and that the odor had resisted several floor treatments. And last night when I popped in, there it was again: the scent of ordure, lingering like a Baby Ruth in a swimming pool.
I put in a call to Paris Club publicist Kathleen Henson, who said the problem arose from a section of the floor in the bar that hadn't been properly treated. Those rumors about the French barn? False. The salvaged wood came from a number of sources, she said, though her original press release stated the build out employed “distressed wood floors and reclaimed barnwood tables.” If all the powers at LEYE's disposal couldn't properly deodorize that section of the floor, she promised, they'd tear it up and replace it.
Fair enough, and best of luck. But I got to thinking: shortly before Paris Club opened, the staff staged a handful of "practice dinners" to which they invited media, friends, and other "VIPs." This is a common event in the restaurant industry, though the hosts are generally less concerned about practicing than they are about generating positive buzz.
And buzz the Melmans got. Plenty of attendees blogged about these comped dinners, posting pictures, bragging about their access, and squealing about the "energetic vibe", the "charcuterie platter fit for King Louis," the "great" service, and the "flaky, tender" Black Bass Amandine. They. All. Just. Loved it.
Curiously, not one of these well-fed VIPs mentioned anything about the smell.
As a matter of policy, the Reader doesn't attend restaurant previews (not that we were invited to these). We prefer to give you, discerning reader, an unbiased analysis of a restaurant's quality and value on our own dime, no sooner than one month after the doors have opened. You know, so the restaurant has had enough practice. So I can't tell you what it smelled like on those particular nights. But I still think these smitten posters raise a fair question:
Do free restaurant previews render food bloggers insensible to shit?
You can read my review of Paris Club here.
Comments (13)
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Funnily, I just had lunch at Sable today and it reeks of gas. I said this to the hostess and she acknowledged that it's an ongoing problem that they've had investigated time and time again and haven't been able to fix. (Something about the ventilation.) The smell was so strong upon arrival that I definitely would not leave it out of a blog post.
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This article is spiteful and mean! After reading it a few more times, it is apparent that you are bent out of shape for not being invited to the pre-parties and you have an ax to grind. Even worse is your contempt for the Melman sons. To blame their youthfulness on this most unfortunate indecent is ridiculous! Your function as a critic is an important part of Chicago's food scene and I welcome your honest critiques however it is un-sporty to call out an establishment for something that they have absolutely no control over. Not cool dude! Why didn't you include the fact that LEY is committed to using LEED certified reclaimed materials in their construction? That would certainly paint the situation in a more favorable light don't you think?
Just typical Communist homosexual lamestream media hating what the public likes, attacking success and worshiping failure.
"Just typical Communist homosexual lamestream media hating what the public likes, attacking success and worshiping failure."
Nice to see a phony right-wing troll stick up for a French restaurant owned by a Jewish family.
"Why didn't you include the fact that LEY is committed to using LEED certified reclaimed materials in their construction?"
Spit in the ocean. If they really wanted to save energy, they would shutter their restaurants and tell people to cook at home.
I was there shortly after opening and noticed the smell. But I wasn't going to mention it to the staff. It would be like going to someone's house and saying that you thought their house smelled. I hoped it had something to do with the newness of the place and that it would go away. Perhaps that's what the opening/practice party attendees also thought. If you are a guest at a party, do you insult the host?
"If you are a guest at a party, do you insult the host?"
Depends how many drinks I've had.
It definitely stinks in there. Taste is so connected to smell that I could not enjoy anything I had. Maybe they should rename it "Paris Barn" or "Merde Club".
The smell is from when the floors got refinished. And they didn't get refinished till AFTER the practice parties. They literally did the floors right before the Feb 9th opening. That's why none of the "VIPS" smelled anything...
Perhaps there is a simpler explanation: http://youtu.be/fi5PFI3rMTQ
Six Stars: The Ultimate Dining Experience!
-- MrJM
Smelled the same dang thing! Here's my take on it though: http://emilybelden.wordpress.com/2011/03/2…
Related Locations
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Paris Club
- 59 W. Hubbard St., Chicago River North IL 60654
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312-595-0800
- parisclubchicago.com
- Be the first to review this location!
