Thursday, January 22, 2009

Video: making cha chiang mian at V.I.P. Restaurant

Posted By on 01.22.09 at 12:25 PM

This week in Omnivorous I wrote about the half dozen or so Chinese-Korean restaurants where you can order a bowl of fresh black bean noodles, or cha chiang mian. I think it's remarkable that these restaurants roll, cut, and boil these noodles to order, but there was once a day when each order was hand pulled, a dramatic, labor-intensive process that results in a tastier noodle that bonds better with the sauce.

One of my favorite places for cha chiang mian is V.I.P. Restaurant in Albany Park (3254 W. Montrose, 773-588-2727). Haiben Chin, who manages the restaurant for her mom and dad, says the family, which once operated a place in Seoul, opened V.I.P. in the mid-80s when the neighborhood was primarily Korean. Up until about 10 years ago her dad, Szui Yung, used to hand-pull noodles. "He says he's too old," she laughed. "His elbows hurt too much to do it." Still, he makes some mean noodles. Here, in matter, of minutes he rolls a bunch out, cooks them, and presents a double-sided bowl of cha chiang mian and champong, the spicy seafood noodle dish.


Making cha chiang mian at Chicago's V.I.P. Restaurant
from mike sula on Vimeo.

 

In the listings, 13 Asian noodle joints.

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