Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Food & Drink / Food Chain Saveur hearts Chicago
Posted by Martha Bayne on 09.18.07 at 11:43 AM
Selections from Saveur's October mash note to Chicago--which hits newstands today--are now available online, along with some Web-only content that includes a brief piece by from Hungry's Michael Nagrant on Puebla tacos. I haven't gotten my mitts on the print edition yet, but based on the table of contents it looks like a thoroughly juicy overview. But I couldn't help but sigh through this introductory piece, which, like every piece apparently to be written about Chicago food, suffers from more than a touch of "look Ashley, they've got microgreens in the midwest!" condescension. (Paging Alan Richman!)
Sure Chicago's historically a meat and potatoes town--but so's New York, as anyone who's ever been to Peter Luger knows. Sure, we have a rich tapestry of immigrant food traditions -- but so does New York. And San Francisco. And LA. And sure we're at the epicenter of a culinary revolution right now. But while I don't want to diminish the influence of superstars like Grant Achatz, the idea that sophisticated dining somehow sprang fully grown from his toque in the last three years is a disservice to everyone who's been cooking (and eating) here since Charlie Trotter bought that Armitage Avenue townhouse 20 years ago.
In any event, I can't wait to get the hard copy and see what they have to say about Richard Melman (PDF).
Comments (2)
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I have a hard copy and I can say that where it is not condescending, it falls down on the job. They miss the "food scene" entirely and they really miss the mark when it comes to celebrating the diversity of our neighborhoods.
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It is condescending in spots, and has some definite blank spots, but several articles (notably the ones on Polish and soul food, and Bruce Sherman's piece) more than justify $5 to pick it up. Whenever NYers deign to notice us little people, I remember something I read an executive headhunter say once: "The second hardest thing is recruiting a New Yorker to move to the midwest. The hardest thing is recruiting them to move back to New York."
